Category Archives: Travels

Mists and Mellow Fruitfulness

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Oh to be in England now that Autumn is here – and I was, lying contemplating life, as I try not to move in the very squeaky bed and feel the pain of the weeks sailing all over – when suddenly a knock at the door and ‘Your breakfast is on the table’ lilts over the room. Christ! Kim, quick, food – first time I have ever been woken up for breakfast in a hotel/b&b/inn but here it was at the Devon and Cornwall. We dressed quickly and rushed down before the sausages cooled – hurried but delicious none the same. We looked at the weather – we couldn’t see it for the fog. Oh well Plymouth Hoe was out – that was how we saw it, or rather didn’t see it, last time we passed through.

The Torpoint ferry is a chain ferry – totally silent as you watch the sat nav take you over the water, then through some dodgy looking dockyard areas and off to Lyme Regis to stand on the Cobby (please do not stand on the rocks sign) where Meryl Streep’s art director put on her cloak and pretended to be her standing out in the spray. We wandered into a cafe with nautical themes of flags and had one of the best cream teas ever – what a great start to the day. Then it all went wrong.

Our sat nav was doing a splendid job – until we hit the section of the road that had just been closed for sewage work. We ended up in a loop seeing the Black Dog pub three times before heading off somewhere only to return to the same crossroads half an hour later. Finally we broke free and arrived at Durdle Door in Dorset – a beautiful part of the Jurassic coastline with an arch and white cliffs.

Tyneham is a village where the villagers were evicted to make way for soldiers practicing for the all important D-Day landings. They were permanently evicted and the village lies in the centre of an MOD firing range. However it is available to visit at weekends when the ranges are closed, and a fascinating place it is to visit. The school house has an exhibition and each house has a board with pictures of the villagers.

Onward to Boscombe Pier at Bournemouth, a new minimalist pier which is a joy to tread the boardwalks of. We had 5 minutes before closing but they were a good 5 minutes watching the sea infested with surfers. The Bournemouth Eye – a tethered balloon was not inflated today (either due to it being October or because of strong winds) so it was northward to Salisbury for the night at the Kings Arms Hotel and its huge bathroom and beams and odd angle stairs you need to be drunk to climb up.

A morning walk to the cathedral meant one could wander around with a camera without people tutting – it is truley a wonderful space. We heard the service start with a disembodied voice and no congregation. Salisbury itself was very picturesque and the Autumnal colours matched it well. SInce the weather was so nice we decided to visit the gardens at Stourhead nearby. A two hour stroll was a joy with the gardens a riot of reds and oranges and greens – and with classical follies to provide unexpected views at most corners (so they began to be more expected). The rain started just as we finished the walk – perfect timing.

The plan was to race to Leek and Buxton (sounds like a soup dish) but we stopped at a farmers market/restaurant for some Broccoli and Cheddar soup before racing wind powered northward to Derbyshire and discover the Gladbach Youth Hostel from whence we could find Lud’s Church. This is a natural chasm in a woodland where Gawain met the Green Knight of Arthurian legends, based on the pagan Green Man.

Well we would have found it if we hadn’t had to put the clocks back an hour and so it was now dusk and we were wandering along a darkening path in what turned out to be the wrong direction in the rain. The consensus was that was particularly stupid so we decided to retire to a hotel in Buxton and we were glad we did.

The Buckingham hotel is a large Victorian pile and with the warning Rotary Club sign wasn’t really tempting – but tripadvisor had it listed as no 3 in Buxton. However it did look different on closer inspection with a picture of Basil Fawlty, and a charging structure that included Germans and Hotel Inspectors, a magazine stall that included Warships and Canal Boats magazines, photographs of movie stars littering the walls and stairwells, toys including the Banana Splits in glass cases – the girl pointed to the lift but we used the stair so we could see the other stars.
All the rooms had a beer mat above hte number and we were beside the Green Man which sounded prophetic. We had the room with photographs of Al Pacino everywhere and a larger bathroom than the Kings Hotel where I could get wifi if I positioned a chair near the bath.

Day Skipper

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All my waterproofs packed and it was off on the SouthWest airline flight from Newcastle to Plymouth. The board gate information gives a counter down in minutes labelled ‘Time to shop’. Musing at the queues of woman holding plastic sacks of toiletries to maintain them during short flights I boarded to find my manly waterproof jacket smothered in flowers as a woman packs a large bouquet into the overhead locker.

I had to get to Southdown Marina near Millbrook which is a long taxi ride (fortunately I shared the first part of the ride to Plymouth station) then onto the chain ferry at Torpoint and an exciting ride down single track roads as the taxi driver is adjusting his sat nav. I joined the boat – which is a lovely catamaran, scaring Jim on board who was busy fixing his heater as I bounce on board. Andy an RAF Hercules pilot/navigator arrives, followed by Jordan a Bulgarian Yachtmaster examinee (and not Peter Andre’s ex).

The first night is a simple motor down the creek to an anchor point, where we learn about anchoring a catamaran with a claw to adjust its pivot point and settle in for the night. My cabin has its own toilet (head) and shower (in the same space which makes toilet cleaning easier…) and a ladder with which I chimney up between the wardrobe and the ladder and hurl myself into the narrow gap which is the bed.

Breakfast was fried cheese with plum tomatoes – what a start to the long day (they were all long days – starting early and finishing with lectures on diesel engines or navigation – this was no joy trip this was serious learning). Sailing around Plymouth Sound off the scary looking breakwater whilst naval destroyers cruised around. Busy little place. Captain Jim got us all together with the weather forecast – it was not looking good. Force 7 gusting Force 8 and in the wrong direction too. So he asked us in turn ‘would you consider going on a trip down the coast in weather like this, without me on board’ – we each in turn replied ‘absolutely not’ – and he said ‘Good, so lets go then, we need to be out of Plymouth as Jordan is getting tested there’. Gulp. We got the boat ready and drove through the four posts marking the exit to Plymouth and into a very rough English Channel.

We were being chased by HMS Daring at one point doing its manouvers and after an hour of bouncing around all over the place whilst I was in looking at charts it all got too much for my anti seasickness bracelets (I had forgotten to take my crystallised ginger as I had assumed we were just going to be in the calm waters of Plymouth Sound) and I promptly threw up over the back rail losing breakfast in a trice. I was put on the helm as looking at the horizon helps but lunch followed over the back and I was timing the projectile vomiting with helming quite well until I had nothing left to give to the fishes.

The entrance to Fowey harbour was impressively scary but Jim took over and we were soon in calmer waters. We parked near the lifeboat (they weren’t going out in weather like that) and I took the chance to go for a walk on land that doesn’t sway in all directions. We had to move up river to avoid the worsening wind and settled on a pontoon for the night.

Black wet suited Customs officers visited us in the morning on their scary black rib – possibly wondering about Jordan’s endless supply of Bulgarian chocolate and asked us various questions about our course before wishing us luck and heading off in their black boat again to interrogate someone else.

We had to pop into town to the post office (whilst it was not on strike) and another chance to wander around the picturesque town of Fowey (home of Daphne Du Maurier) – we had tied up and Jordan and I were strolling off the pontoon when another yacht came in at speed, in the same direction as the river current and smashed into the front of our catamaran. It had turned out that Mervyn (or Swervin’ Mervyn as he came to be known) had picked up something round his prop and didn’t have the ability to stop – he tried scuba diving but got told off for not having a diving licence. We suggested we could tow him tomorrow to a dry dock which he took up and we left to do pontoon bashing and mooring in the river to our hearts content.

State of the Union

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Ali called ‘ I need to visit the Falkirk Wheel for my course’. In that sentence came the germ of an idea to paddle up the union canal and emerge on the wheel to meet him. Well so much for theory. I then found the Skippers Guide to the Union Canal on the internet and it made grim reading – lots of not allowed and an entire chapter on dangers. The Union Canal is a contour canal following the 240 foot contour and the length from Linlithgow to Falkirk Wheel only has locks at the end as well as the wheel. It was dug by the navigators (navvies) including Burke and Hare, the well known Irish serial killers who sold the corpses to Edinburgh’s medical schools as ‘bodysnatched’.

It still seemed a great idea so we strapped the kayak on the top of the car, learnt a new ‘lorry driver’ knot to tension the kayak on the car and headed off to find somewhere to launch it. That was easier said than done – I wanted to go over the Avon Aquaduct (second longest in the UK) because I had been over the others on the canal (walking and barge), so trying the bridges to the east of the Avon proved tricky – hedges, mud, cattle – until we reached the Linlithgow Canal Centre – and there was a ramp into the water – sorted.

Dry suit on, PFD on, boots on, hat on, paddle assembled, kayak on ramp half in water, waterproof torch stuffed down PFD, Mike in, Kim pushing him down the ramp, kayak not moving, Kim collapsed corpsing as Mike is doing his rampant rabbit movement to shuffle the kayak down until some kind narrow boat person helping to push and launched into the canal as an out of control narrow boat bears down. Rudder deployed and compass confirming which way to go and I was off, with no current to help or hinder it was paddling all the way.

Autumn is a wonderful time – the colours of the trees and the mix of different colours is stunning and here we have this in duplicate as everything is reflected perfectly in the still canal water. This combined with bridges appearing as gateways – circles through which I would paddle through the centre like going through a Stargate or Orfee’s mirror. Delightful. And the canal was empty so far – some ducks which I could creep up on and at the last moment they would all take off.

A vista opened up and it was the Grangemough Oil Refinery which looked startingly beautiful from a distance. Polmont prison emerged with high metal fences and barbed wire and CCTV cameras. I was not going to accept hitchhkers. The bridges made great gateways and interest points – especially the laughin/greetin bridge with its faces (unsurprisingly laughing and greeting)

Litter – there were cans of tennents lager (probably empty), bobbing coke bottles, leaves, branches to jam my rudder, ducks and swans.
Yes swans – I had read about swans attacking paddlers on the Union Canal and here I rounded the corner and there were two of them straddling the middle of the canal like watchmen, paddling down the canal, and watching from side to side. I stopped paddling 20 yards from them and waited – without looking around they moved to one side and turned to look at me – I paddled slowly past and said ‘Thank You’, they nodded and went on patrolling.

There was a phalanx of walkers, individuals with dogs, fishermen, narrow boat people waving glasses of beer, cyclists, kayakers, canoeists and all were autumnly cheery and all waving. I thought I had the canal protocol – paddle on the right heading westward – eastward they are on the left – when a narrow boat emerged heading straight for me – I was reaching for my fog horm when she gesticulated widly that I was to go to her starboard side. I paddled there and she apologetically explained that the canal was too shallow for her at that side – we waved cheerily as we passed each other wish each other a fine afternoon.

The Falkirk Tunnel is a single lane 650 yard tunnel hewn from rock because the owners of Callender House couldn’t bear to see a canal from his house. It is lit and you can see the end and it has a Red Light and Green Light – the protocol is obvious – red light means don’t go* , green light means go. So what does Red Light and Green light flashing mean? I thought this would be easy. I looked behind there was no narrow boats to mow me down. I looked ahead and the tunnel was clear and the entrance didn’t have a narrow boat in it. It was decision time – I went.

[ Note well reading the Skipper guide properly I see that Red Light actually means it is clear to go! and you are supposed to wait for a steady green once you have passed a sensor (kayaks are obviously too low for the sensor) and blinking red light means there is a narrow boat coming to crush you kayakers - it still doesn't explain what flashing red and flashing green means however.... ]

Singing ‘Onward Christian Solider’s for solid rhythm, an unusual choice for an athiest, echoing through the tunnel as I did rapid deep strokes – I wanted to be at the end of the tunnel as soon as possible and was shifting fast looking at the end of the tunnel with fear fuelling the paddling. My torch strapped to the lines on the kayak started to make shadows on the wall and for a second I thoguht it was a narrow boat behind me – that caused a bit more rapid paddling and those Christian soliders had broken into a sprint… the tunnel roof was dripping water and was rough rock – it had a beauty along with the solid line I was paddling. The end of the tunnel arrived with a waterfall falling on my head as I left it.

I was relieved to emerge unscathed and not run down when the wind hit me – low paddling up the canal to the lock with the canal water less still. A narrow boat emerged and I made to go in – No Way – this is the end of the line – I talked portage but got a firm No this is the end of the line there is no way forward. I clambered out without falling in the canal which was a first for me. The lockkeeper and his colleague were friendly and helpful but this was it – they told me how Kim could pick me up there from the Falkirk Wheel. He even unzipped my dry suit so I could recover my phone, much to the amusement of his chum.

In the meantime Kim had taken Ali and his friends around the Falkirk Wheel (cafe, shop and very little else – crying out for some educational centre on engineering and physics) and Callender House (which allowed you to build a model of Antonoine’s wall). And the coffee table – the boys wanted a coffee table for their new luxury pad in Dundee – the one they wanted was presented by the straight faced salesman as a 6 inch box to go – he said that it included a glass blowing kit and everything else was inside. They believed him and he revealed it was a jest but they were stunned when the actual table arrived in a large box to fit in their small car (it fitted!)

Kim picked me up, although she was on the wrong canal at one point (the Forth and Clyde Canal) wondering where I was, then using sat nav drove to near the lock to see her bright yellow husband trailing a bright red kayak behind him on the canal path. We strapped the kayak on the roof and returned homeward via the Carfraemill where I could read the Guardian (Bad Science and Eoin Colfer explaining why he is doing a new Hitchhiker book) over a nice rare fillet steak. What a fabulous day.

Plockton Paddle

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Time for the annual flying club outing to Plockton which yet again saw no-one flying there from East Fortune (one intrepid soul had left for Gigha the day before and managed to reach Plockton up the west coast) due to very low cloud over the munro height mountains. George had been up there for a few days before and took the chance to get 5 engine failures, one over the unforgiving heather and rocks of Applecross, before retiring to the hanger to take his engine to pieces and find a piece of rubber in the carburettor.

Kim and I drove up via the Real Food cafe at Tyndrum for lunch and wild swimming in the whisky coloured water of the River Etive. Kim shivered on the rocks as I lowered myself into the strong current – she had checked I was fully insured and asked me to swim down the waterfall – I declined her kind encouragement. Swimming in the pool felt great once the cold wore off. It felt great getting out finally after swimming in whisky.

Cake and beer at the Cluanie Inn and Plockton arrived soon enough for an evening of beer and wine and seafood at the Plockton Shores then back to the Plockton Inn for a bucketful of alcohol until we were all asked to leave the bar. Yes we were back in Plockton.

The weather was still bad the next day – I stayed in the hanger to erect my kayak as the rest spread themselves around parts of Skye. The kayak construction which in the sales literature takes 30 minutes – at Achiltibuie took 2 hours and in the hanger on the concrete floor took 6 hours and was squint (possibly causing the additional delays). But hey I worked through various strategies on construction so was a step forward and had an assembled kayak ready to launch. The hanger was rocking in the wind – the weather was no better.

I walked down from the airfield to the water – it did not look far on Google Earth but in reality it was over the runway, through a locked gate down a field of cows and a windey narrow stony path through gorse bushes to the stony beach. Taking a 16.5 foot long and quite a wide kayak that way was not going to be fun so I decided to abandon todays launch and attach it to the car and take it to Plockton harbour for a 10am launch. Unfortunately I let this be known over a few drinks to the rest of the club.

Everyone appeared at 10 on Plockton shoreline – laden with photographic equipment and cheers of encouragement. There was a paddle crisis solved by Kim as I dressed in a bright yellow dry suit, put my booties and gloves on and now PFD enhanced strode down with my constructed paddle to the shoreline. My bright red chariot awaited – but I wasn’t going to simply get in and paddle.

I had made this thing up and it was squint I had no idea of its ability to float or steer in a straight line or if I could get out when it inevitably capsized. So it was easy does it and I sat on top and tried some paddling measures.

It was surprisingly stable – with me on top and legs dangling over the side i could rock from side to side without it tipping excessively. Paddling forward and back revealed a turn to the right probably from the squint.

I lifted my legs up to slip them in and the resultant instability tipped me into the drink and the kayak was upside down. It’s sea sock meant there was minimal water in the kayak and it was easy to dump the water from the seasock out. Back to shore and this time getting in properly. This time it really did feel stable and I paddled around the island – until I discovered that as the tide was going out towards low tide the island was quite shallow in lots of parts and wasn’t entirely circumnavigable without portage. So I returned to shore to cries of “deploy your rudder’ – pulled the white rope and to shrieks of laughter my rudder flopped into the water – the only moving part of the boat and it worked!

Sundies Undies

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Typical, one Saturday and three east coast air shows – Arbroath, East Fortune and The Sunderland 21st Air Show, the latter had the attraction of being totally free (Arbroath would entail a visit to my mother and east fortune would have pocketed about 60 quid from us) . Sunderland also had a huge programme including the Red Arrows, Blades, Typhoon, Battle of Britain flights, loads of choppers and the only flying Vulcan bomber doing its stuff over the yachts moored on the flight axis.

Ignoring the organised ‘Park and Ride’ signs we got snarled in Sunderland traffic and managed to park for free in the Metro station, just a short walk through a council house estate and we arrived just in time to see the Red Arrows turning their smoke on in blue skies over the sea off Sunderlands circular harbour and iconic lighthouses at Roker. Watching from the promenade we had a fabulous uncluttered view – with miles of beach it was easy to lose the 300,000 spectators. Wandering down for lunch we found out where they were, they were all queuing for food, even the healthy eating van had a huge queue – but being British we all stood in line for munchies. Kim acted as chip carrier (can’t come to Sunderland and not have chips they even have special chip queues for people not wanting any other food but chips). We mused on our good sense to stand in the middle of 300,000 people during a Swine Flu pandemic, but hey you have to live dangerously sometimes, besides it may be safer getting it now than being given an untested vaccine and would make our Pandemic risk assessment easy – already had it, tick handled.

Ice cream for afters led me to think someone had spiked it as I saw a huge pink unicorn in a pushchair – but Stuart did observe that ’some horse has eaten that child’ – although he was on icecream too so this wasn’t conclusive – Kim returned from the loo missing out on the ice cream so we could use her a test. It turned out the unicorn was one of a line of mammoth plushies – winnie the pooh and tigger too seen following shortly after and some chap with an elephant on his back. Since the folk carrying them weren’t small, and sometimes were toting multiple plushies (now we knew why they needed pushchairs), how they were all going to fit in a small family car was beyond me. Others were off on Roker beach competing with the air show with their kites and paddling away in the surf.

We watched the police tackle youths then gather together with their bags of confiscated booze, and during the less exciting displays played the ‘Fat or Pregnant’ game as colourful folk waddled past with their chips – there was now more of interest to see on the ground than in the air – the flesh on display was remarkable – I hadn’t seen so much since the nude installation on the Gateshead Millennium Bridge and if it wasn’t flesh it was underwear on show – more of a Hair Show really. I turned my neck to find a shapely naked arse staring at me, some lass had bent over to tie her childs laces – in perfect timing the air show tannoy announced ‘Hope you are all enjoying the display’. This was of course the same announcer who on seeing the Spitfire fly in said ‘This is the reason we don’t speak German today’. Just about everyone was toting a dog or a child about or several children – the population of Sunderland is certainly not under threat and I read that it has the highest percentage of takeup of broadband and Digital Satellite in the UK so we have a rough idea of what they all get up to.

The Vulcan bomber was awesome and the show ended with the Typhoon roaring around the sky and disappearing vertically through the clouds like a farewell curtain. There was another day of more of the same but without sunshine on the Sunday so we escaped back through the housing estate to the metro at the ‘Stadium of Light’, the car was still there so we joined an enormous queue heading out through the Tyne Tunnel, admiring the Boldon business park Quadrus building, and hit the A1 northward to enjoy a lamb shank and ale in the Shoulder of Mutton at Longhorsley.

It does seem to be one enormous military recruitment campaign but it is also a tremendous day (or two if you hang around for the award winning nightlife and suffer your Wine Flu on the beach on Sunday) – the combination of no entrance fee with a fabulous air show over a gorgeous seascape is too tempting to miss.

Airshow Photos

Lutine

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Lutine is a French lady fairy with the rather reassuring attribute of  ‘you penetrate the abysses of the sea without drowning’

It was also the name of the boat that we jumped ship to – it is a 60 foot wooden restored boat which used to be owned by Lloyds of London and had won the Fastnet race twice. It is a Camper & Nicholson built boat (1954) with lovely wide wooden decks and more sails than crew. Skippered by a man born for the sea (noting an Onedin Line lookalike with Captain Baines) our first meeting was turning up on his deck with all of our luggage and some french sticks and cheese for lunch. Gob smacked wasn’t the correct phrase as he shouts ‘What the hell are all these bags? Are you in transit?’ and ‘this is a big ship but I don’t know if we have enough room for these!’. We did offer to stow them in the marina offices but his son had already kindly cleared a bunk for us to temporarily bunk them in.

Hanging from the mizzen boom I was chatting to one of the professional looking crew who admitted he had been press ganged for the day too and had only come on board 5 minutes before our dressing down, that was before he had admitted to drinking urine by mistake on another voyage. A spoon playing Irishman,  a young cabin boy, another irish lad who was a Cornish graphic designer and a chap who used to live in the same street in Edinburgh as myself made up the crew complement for the race around  Île-de-Bréhat, off Paimpol.

We were locked out of the dock and followed the boats to the start line, then we wooshed around and almost crossed the start line to find out that in France that is the 10 minute warning poop on the horn so quickly came about and circled in readiness. There was no stopping this boat or crew – once the race was off we were well in the front of everyone with James navigating off charts below and everyone pulling sheets and changing sails – I managed to put away the Ensign (not flown during a race) and returned it at the end and was responsible for the Mizzen Sail. We even saw a dolphin off the bow.

‘I thought you said you were sailors’, gnarled the skipper to his new crew as he barked questions at his navigator. You go 240 degrees Dad he shouted back. It was great to see a professional crew all come together and everything happen (not seamlessly, but effectively and problems routed around quickly). With the large downwind sail out we flew and it was great seeing every other boat in the race so far behind. Sadly it was only once around the island as we were all getting into the feel of the boat – the race had finished we were first (handicapping meant we were third in the race – if we had gone around again we would have been first due to increasing distance all the time with the competitors) and we anchored off a lighthouse for rest and recreation as we couldnt lock in again at Pampoil until 7 in the evening.

The anchor didn’t feel right as we were moving so it was brought up and the anchor hook appeared with a tyre attached. Paddy hung over precariously and it was unceremoniously dumped into the water. We moved a bit further on and dropped anchor again. This time when we brought it up we had a lobster pot complete with lobster and spider crabs hanging off the hook. We also had the lobster fishing boat on our port side and had to swiftly get rid of this before they attacked us. We didn’t think anyone saw us but in the bar in the evening it appeared the entire race did and our anchoring was commented on. We were anchored outside a pub but couldn’t get there – this was some circle of hell. The weather was gorgeous so we all lay around sunbathing and chatting and dozing as sea kayakers paddled past, as the huge ferry boats offloaded tourists to the pub, as a dredging boat went past and the lobster fishermen returned laying out traps.

We had to take the passage back slowly as the tidal range is huge (9 metres) so moves fast and rises rapidly but Lutine’s draught was 9 feet so the depth gauge was nervously beeping. Locking in was with some Breton boat who almost decapitated a photographer in a rib in front of him, and we were all photographed by a lock side full of tourists as Breton dancing went on and pipes played. We disembarked with all of our luggage but with an invite to the race to Guernsey the next day which we gratefully accepted.

We all booked into a hotel at the marina side which in retrospect was a mistake thanks to the Breton festival that was on and the Europop band that played non stop until after 1am. But it was nice to get showered down and head out for some beer, snails and steak tartare, before retiring for some well earned sleep. An early start meant trips around the bakers and Marche for water, bread, cheese and batteries for my GPS.

Locked out and at the start we were raring to go only to find that the forecast force 4 to 5 winds decided to go on holiday elsewhere. There wasn’t a breath of wind so Clive the skipper said bugger this and started his engine and headed off. 5 minutes later the race was abandonded and everyone else followed Lutine on the long motor to Guernsey. We went the pretty route – near the rocks and lighthouses, and saw floating weed in abundance. My phone was more informative than the GOS – Welcome to Jersey it said and then Welcome to Guernsey. I was nodding off and retired downstairs onto a free bunk with my arm out as if demanding tariff for the heads. I awoke and we had reached Guernsey harbour, I strode on deck just to hear the boat come to a complete halt and a bit of a scrape on its bottom – we had scraped rocks in a buoyed channel into the harbour – the harbour rib came out and said that the tide was rising quickly so we would be off soonish – just to have the rest of the regatta fleet sail in wondering why we were stuck there.

We disembarked said our thanks and jumped into a rib taxi to the Jersey ferry which was sitting there. We raced up to the ticket office to be told she was dealing with a customer, who turned out to be disabled and so we had to wait as the ferry is sitting there. She came back – and we said jersey ferry and she looked at us as if we were stupid and said ‘We don’t deal with that here you need to go down there’ …. groan. We got to the booking office as the ferry was leaving the dock. Fay the friendly ferrygirl had us down as Mr Condor, which I think I shall use as my non-de-plume from now on, and got us tickets for tomorrows ferry (we would just make our flight) and she recommended a hotel that her boyfriend was sous chef at.

We dragged our bags until Gill found us a taxi and arrived at the hotel exhausted but still ready to negotiate room rates. A sous chef appeared at the desk and I asked if he was Fay’s boyfriend and he was astonished – we should have made out we were psychics. The room was comfortable and I went for a swim in the heated outdoor pool with some guy looking at me strangely – I am guessing it was my impressive array of bruises a consequence of hanging off backstays during propwash and the girls hitting me with a boathook to stop me snoring.

Dinner was as expected, what was unexpected was the food poisoning from the starter that Alison and I had – I must have been hit badly because I spent most of the night peppering the loo with explosive diahorrea and feeling sick (I imagined it was because I took my sea sickness wrist bands off and it was all catching up). I was speaking to the Maderia staff (all the hotel staff were from Madeira) who told me about their conditions – get pregnant get deported, and the way the island licences accommodation based on employment requirements, and there was some birthday party on with Essex girls and boys (’just cos your 16 doesn’t mean you can go off fucking in the bushes’, one ballroom clad lady hollered across the Guernsey night)

The next morning the taxi rushed us (the island has a speed limit of 35mph which makes buying from one of the islands Porsche and Asron Martin dealers a bit of a joke) to the ferry. I asked her if she was from Guernsey – yes I have lived here all my life she said proudly. There were accepting murmurs from the girls in the back. I then asked if she remembered the war – sharp intake of breath from the back, but she said she remembered it well. I then asked ‘which side were you on’ and a choking sound emerged from the back as in ‘why do we have to travel with this idiot?’ but the driver smiled and said ‘can’t you tell from my litle moustache’. She didn’t tell though, which was telling.

It was all plain sailing now or so we thought. The ferry would appear to have lost an engine, how careless of it. So it was going to be an hour late. That meant we had about 3 minutes to catch the plane at the other end if all went well…. being FlyBE we had to inform them 2 hours before hand of any changes. The only thing we could do was to change form Aberdeen to Edinburgh which was a later flight that day. Kim handled all the ticket rearrangements in her role of getting me home again.

The ferry people were very good in that they signed a thing saying the ferry was over an hour late and made sure we were at the front of the queue for getting off – we ran down the gangway picked up our bags and got into a taxi and straight into a traffic jam. We arrived to waht I assumed was Bombay Intgernational Airport – it certainly had the population to warrant it. God I hate the great unwashed British travelling public – flying used to be about style and elegance – now it is reminiscent of a bus station. Long queues which we strode to the front of to see if we could blag a seat on the aberdeen flight – the woman looked like we were insane, and we hadlt eve told her about our channel crossing, saying I was a pilot didn’t help either (I had forgotten that baggage handlers earn more than pilots in low cost airlines). We were on the Edinburgh flight so checked our bags into left luggage and took the pretty FlyBE customer care girls advice and walked across the staff car park and int the mermaid tavern for the rest of the day. It is often very difficult to stifle pub converstiaon but you could have cut the silence with a nife onc ehte girls got into their conversation about autoerotic asphyxiation and its prevalance in suicide cases.

There was almost a flight between an old glaswegian couple and someone who had the temerity to prebook and so could walk tothe front using his prebooked queue. Alison said – it is just as well the knives are in the hold baggage. The British abroad and we are not even properly abroad. The flight was uneventful, the porridge was yummy and I drained remaining euros on wine and gin. Stuart picked us off and we dropped the girls off at Inverkeithing where it appeared the line was closed and they had to get a bus with my waterproof jacket still in one of their bags….

I got back to find out that in my absence our gardner/fencer/chainsawer had been killed by a sheep  (not one of mine) and had been resurrected in the ambulance by a paramedic and defibrillator; the neighbouring farmer had rolled his tractor and had concussion and sadly a father and daughter had died in a dinghy accident on Keilder which put our own sailing adventures into a much dimmer light altogether.

Lost In France

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We were all psyched up ready for the channel crossing – one of the busiest shipping channels in the world and we were going to head straight over it in a small flotilla of sailing boats – and not from the Dover/Calais side but from the Atlantic side crossing over 100 miles and into what looks like a sea defence set of rocks protecting Paimpol. The forecast was force 8 with rough seas so we wore our motion sickness bands (on the P6 acupuncture point which surprisingly seems to work) and gobbled down crystallised ginger only to find that the race had been postponed and we would find out tomorrow morning. So a day to spend passage planning going through the charts redoing tidal calculations and routes for what might be a daytime passage, whilst listening to the high winds whistling through the boats and the halyards clashing against the masts. When evening arrived we went on a small pub crawl to find out one crew hadn’t been told by their skipper that the 5am early rise had been cancelled too. They weren’t in our class so were not competitors but were still sceptical  – we did point out they would find out at 5am tomorrow whether we were telling the truth or not. We returned to the boat with me only getting my bottom wet as I almost fell out of the tender – things were going remarkably well.

Then they didn’t. At all.

The cooker broke down so we had no way of getting hot water, the heads inlet valve also decided to stop working, my lifejacket clamp fell off, our exit from the pontoon was met by a hail of abuse from a gnarly seaman who couldn’t believe the mess that two boats could make floating down the Dart towards his pride and joy,  and we had a wonderful kerfuffle at the start of the race in front of the committee boat again and last over the start line. And we were off following a large set of sails across the channel with the wind in the right direction and the tide shoving us eastward. Sixteen and a half hours passage – recalling why I fly to get places.

The waves were growing in size, Gill and I were chatting about music when she said ‘oh I hate Paul McCartney’, when a wave suddenly hit her and she cried out – ‘Christ, it’s a Paul McCartney fan all the way from the Mull of Kintyre’. As the waves grew it became harder to stand at the stern looking after the mainsheet so I slid into the helm seat with mainsheet in hand and what became a seat for the girls when they were helming (the helm stance was quite tiring in the standing position and the sitting position was too low so my Goldilocks solution seemed to work well – yes lapdancing across the channel).

The boat has a heavy and large keel so the waves were hitting it and causing it to go into a bizarre sliding motion akin to a skid which made helming tiring as every seventh wave shoved the entire boat off course. The chart plotter was difficult to read in the light of day but we had the sails in front to keep our interest as well as the rapidly approaching cargo ship.

The cargo ship appeared first as a box on the horizon, Alison took a bearing and we carried on exchanging anecdotes. The box grew in size and Alison took another bearing. This time the anecdotes stopped as she said we are on a collision course. With the box growing ever larger forming a clear image of a rapidly moving cargo ship and the bearings still confirming a collision (with which we were almost certainly going to lose out) there followed a heated debate on Collision Regulations (COLREGS) and Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) followed by a stream of abuse punctuated with ‘arrogant, incompetent and fuckwit’ which for once didn’t seem to be directed at me.

All hell broke loose at once, I was clipped on at the stern hanging onto the backstay, as the girls handled the sails and Charles whirled the wheel around and we were now parallel with the cargo ship and into its prop wash. ‘This is much better than Alton Towers’, I screamed, with an eye on the life raft as she heeled over. The boat righted itself and we watched the cargo ship wend its way wetward. Using AIS and my handheld GPS track I was able to work out which ship it was and have a photo of it on my desktop to remind me of our seaprox (along with an RAF tornado which our microlight had an airprox with) – recalling that Burt Bacharach song – why do cargo ships and fighter jets suddenly appear, everytime you are near..

The girls and I helmed our way south as Charles snoozed in readiness for the tough part of the route – the night route through the rocks of the North Passage. We watched the sun set and the red moon rise over the water as hour by hour passed in a cycle of helming and chatting and singing or humming our way through John Martyn’s repertoire. It was a full moon which gave a bit of light but there was little to follow on the horizon apart from the occasional sail appearing and disappearing with the waves. The eastbound channel ships, which were not on a collision course, passed to the front and behind us or straddled in a long line into the distance. The only lights were the moon and our navigation lights and the instrument lights (the chart plotter was moved into night mode).

Alison went to grab some sleep and after ten minutes I decided this would be a good chance with Charles on deck to grab an hour before the navigation nightmare starts with our waypoint Frog1. I discovered Alison in my bunk (it was a secure bunk so you don’t fall out) and the choice was a rear secure bunk which looked a bit to narrow, the forecabin which was bouncing up and down or one of the insecure bunks. Wedging myself into an insecure bunk I kind of drifted in and out of sleep – woken by MAYDAY MAYDAY MAYDAY and PAN PAN PAN calls, until I was unwedged and cramping and moved over to the bunk under Alison. I managed to wake her up as I was thrown over onto the bunk and bounced off the wooden side of it. With one dubarry on and one off and a lifejacket on and off at the same time I managed to flatten her clothes and snore away for a short while before being launched onto the other side. I decided to go for the forecabin and was fast asleep until I thought we were sinking with a MIKE MIKE MIKE call.

It turned out that Gill needed some sleep and there were some navigaitonal points ahead that someone who had done the passage plan could help with. I now had to try to get my other dubarry boot on which was not wanting to – this was in the pitch dark on a rolling boat. Next the life jacket which turned out to be impossible due to a clamp coming off, and the next one I had problems with trying to get the clip closed – finally I was ready and realised I desperately needed to pee. So it was time to unlock the head door and throw myself in on the next roll and unlock it before I was thrown out again. That was when in the pitch dark I realised that my flaccid penis was somewhere under my lifejacket, waterproof jacket, waterproof trousers (with locking zips all going in different directions), my tight pair of Bear Grylls shorts and bamboo underwear. I also had to lift the seat cover, seat and try and pee in the right direction whilst being thrown about, before attempting to get the right seacocks open and closed and pumped. The PAN PAN PAN call turned out to be a women in a small boat with a broken rudder and she was being rescued by helicopter. At least we still had a working rudder.

I stayed in between the chart table and the deck. There were some issues. We had a passage plan that said if it was dark we choose at Frog 1 whether we have sufficient lights to go through the North Channel (which someone had mentioned over drinks was closed) or our first choice was in from the east down a well lit passage. However the chart plotter had been preset to the route and we were now sailing down the North Channel with rocks on all sides and with cardinal buoys all unlit and with lighthouses disappearing due to wave height making it almost impossible to count them for recognition. The chart plotter and GPS took this moment to die, of course.

I had my handheld GPS and I had the charts and started to make suggestions. The rocks and presence of sandbanks and steadily decreasing depth were of concern and I strongly suggested that we should go onto engine to make any progress as tacking with rocks yards away would not be good. Alison helmed bravely with a North West wind making life even more difficult. We started the engine which didn’t start. Great. Battery switched over and we were good to go. My GPS batteries, of course, chose this moment to go losing the backlighting of the screen so I had to use the chart table red light to roughly see where we were in relation to an invisible, in the dark, 193 degree transit. We were on it and motoring down, saw the white buoy we were looking for, and knew we were safe as morning broke and we saw other yachts at safe anchor.

We passed the finish line, retired due to using engine having crossed the channel and beaten by rocks and lack of lights in the last mile. If we had pressed on we could have been first in our class – yet again we could have also been sunk. We followed the well buoyed channel to the Paimpol locks, were locked in to the harbour and tied up on a pontoon and broke out he whisky. The girls announced their departure from the boat and I joined them in the abandoning ship as it wouldn’t have made any sense to rely on me as an incompetent crew and I figured Charles would press gang a complete crew off one of the boats that seemed to break rudders regularly. Three quarters of a bottle later of Highland Park and some fruit cake – the girls and I crowded into the forward bunks and snored our way through to lunch where we discovered Kir Breton (Kir and Breton cider), spinach crepes and mussels with chips.

Paimpol is a jolly town however it is a bugger to escape from. We went along to the tourist office to ask how to leave, an unusual request I grant it. The only way out was a 7 hour 3 change train journey in the opposite direction and ending up in St Malo where a ferry or flight could take us back to blighty. We were settled on an early morning departure leaving Charles to welcome his new crew and for us to start the long trip home. Charles had tickets for the evening so we all settled up our different accounts and polished off more Kir Breton and munched our way through the pheasant as I chatted to a crew from Guernsey. That was where one crew suggested that the skipper of the Lutine was press ganging as they needed more crew so we met the skipper and volunteered and in a moment of madness he agreed and took us on. We had to be on the boat at 0815.

The Careful Cheerful Sailor

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They went to sea in a Sieve, they did,
In a Sieve they went to sea;

Not the Jumblies this time but the plan was for 3 girls and Charles, the skipper owner of Aurai, and myself to set off on the Classic Channel Regatta. With a crew and boat coming from all corners of the UK – Aurai sailing (or more accurately motoring) along the south coast to a pontoon at Dartmouth with Alison and Gill flying from Aberdeen to Exeter airport and spending about the same amount on a taxi from Exeter to Dartmouth. Patsy was missing in action and never turned up, she might have googled and found my blog though.  I flew Edinburgh to Exeter, fuelled with cinnamon and raisin porridge,  but my thoughts of hitching a ride fell rather flat as the torrential rain poured down the baggage hall windows. Dragging my two weeks of baggage, and snorkel, onto a bus I invested in a £6.50 all day ticket with the hope to arrive in style on a steam train into Dartmouth marina. Every bus required a wait or an inelegant  dash to just make the bus platform including leaping on one bus with my bags as it was pulling off. That particular bus driver, still recovering from the shock of a leaping mike, wasn’t going to be fooled twice and refused to let me off at the railway station and insisted on seeing me dash over a busy road hauling my heavy bags and over the passenger bridge to an empty platform. At the end of the platform a puff of smoke gave away the clue that the steam train was leaving soon but hadn’t left yet – I yelled over the fence to find someone answering back and threw my bag at him and clambered over the fence – my bag wallah and I ran to the platform to find the train had left the station and I was left sweating and breathless – out of training literally.

The taxi drivers were going to charge an arm and leg so it was back to the bus station to naturally find the Kingswear one was leaving in a few seconds and another race along the Paignton platform and waving wildly at the bus driver before it leaves I leapt aboard the bus full of white haired ladies. The bus arrived at the marina at the same time as the train so at least I saw the front of the steam train this time. That left dragging the luggage down a slippery iron bridge to the marina office to find out that Aurai was due in a couple of hours, it had started to rain and the marina office was just closing. I figured I could drag the bags down to the end of the pontoon, stick them under my waterproofs and retire to a pub to dry off. When I got there Aurai had arrived early and was being tied up and a south african skipper and a swedish blonde were on deck when Tom popped his head up and said ‘anyone for wine?’, I took an instant liking to Tom. The delivery crew were cold and wet so after wine we retired to the marina showers to freshen up, yomped down the tuna and rice and marched off to the Steam Packet Inn to wait for the girls. Bags arrived with girls hidden under them just before last orders and as gentlemen Tom and I carried Alison’s bag between us until we got back to the boat whereupon, with no hint of the dramatic, Tom fell into the marina waters. Fortunately I still had a hold of the bag and in a trice a hold of Tom’s shoulder too. He dragged himself out trying not to think of what goes in the water and dripped off for a clean shower. With delivery and race crew aboard and with everyone’s luggage we were tight on personal space.  ‘Lucky Gill’ slept on the floor which had the benefit of being close enough to kick me when I erupted into snores, the boat hook was also deployed as sleep deprivation set in.

It was going to be a challenge to make breakfast in the confines of Aurai’s galley – I arose early and went for a reconnaisance tour of the area now it had stopped raining and found that the Royal Dart hotel was offering a 1.99 breakfast which we all devoured along with the optional extras such as tea and beans and hash browns (unlike FlyBE at least the seat was free, yes the airline charge for a seat). The hotel is next to a fantastic ferry – this consists of a tug boat attached to a floating barge, which performs a a balletic manouevere and pushes the barge from shore to shore of the River Dart. The girls weren’t keen to go walking in the rain – when the more observant amongst us spotted that it was only raining in one window – the one with hanging baskets. The weather turned out to be fine and sunny out of the other windows so we offered the delivery crew the chance to go sailing after their long motor in fog and rain as the girls and I wandered the streets of Dartmouth.

When I say streets of course I mean the charity shops and yacht clothing stores as if on a day release from shopping prison they were hunting for feminist books and blankets – although they didn’t seem keen on the muff cosy I pointed out.  We soon exhausted Dartmouth’s retail sector and swapped Charity shops for a church. Our interest in the 1633 beams was met by a very helpful chap who gave us a potted history before he was told that he was disturbing the blessing going on in the corner and we were all asked to leave. So we retired to the less Christian but more welcoming traditional Cherub pub where an ex RAF chap from Lossiemouth swapped flying stories of his Sea Vixen days. We walked and walked and ended up at the mouth of the Dart with its castle which used to hang a chain over the mouth of the river (I had rather hoped they had remembered to remove it before we went steaming out the next day).

Wimbledon was on with Andy Murray playing in the semi final so this was a great excuse to find somewhere to watch it, preferably with some liquid libation – the Royal Castle Hotel offered an almost empty lounge with two flat screens all tuned to Wimbledon and Pimms on tap, so we settled in for a short stay and ended up booking rooms for the night, price renegotiating after each rivetting set. Bizarrely we had a bar that was full of English supporting the Scot Andy Murray with the only Scots in the bar supporting Roddick, and a dog who would bark loudly along with the shouts of the crowd. The girls had a four poster bed with a chaise longue overlooking the fabulous atrium of the hotel and I had a large metal bedstead perfect for handcuffs (just the Gideon Bible supplied though) and overlooked the kitchen exhaust chimney.

With a splendid breakfast overlooking Dartmouth, and a spot of provisioning in the local shops, we returned to the boat to bid farewell to the delivery crew, along with the news that Clinton, the south african,  had asked the now smiling swedish blonde to marry him by arranging bamboo sticks in a park, oddly enough just around the corner from last week’s Dartmouth murder scene where police were appealing for witnesses. We fitted all of our stuff in – the girls taking the forehead bunks, me perched in a narrow bunk with a thoughfully left teddy bear and with Charles luxuriating in his captains bunk (prime position with head adjacent to the heads so you are awoken by any midnight incontinence pumping).

The wind was up and the race was on – we motored down the Dart and out to the appropriately named Start Bay where the committee boat, an old lifeboat, held sway and raised flags dictating the course and which direction you go around the buoys and friendly waves and a poop of the horn when the races started (or you struggled over the finish line). I was the least experienced of the crew (to say the least) and it was a bit of  fast learning curve as I managed to get everything wrong, but at least stayed on board. The radio bleated out messages from another boat with a threatening stance – “Your intentions are unclear, stay clear or we will be forced to retaliate” – I naturally assumed it was us that was being threatened but being last we didn’t have a boat near us and it turned out to be a photographers rib that was going to go through a repel boarders drill. The girls unravelled the winch that I had tangled up and tidied up our headsail and we were making great progress with me pointing in the correct direction until the turn around a buoy where it all went a bit Pete Tong (I also managed to do exactly the same bad manouvere in front of the committee boat at the end of the race – always good to finish with a memorable moment) and we ended up losing a good 5 minutes – to be honest the nearest boat could only be seen through high power binoculars so I am not sure it would be fair to point the fickle finger of why we came in last at me.

The winds had dropped and the three times around the course (which we had now memorised after the first time round) turned into twice around the course and back for drinks at the club. The prospects of drinkies had us all roaring round the course and we got pooped in at the finish line and headed up the Dart where in the middle of the river it was decided to drop the sail and maximise ourselves as a navigational hazard. We had been thrown out of the marina and had to come alongside a floating pontoon, which we found out was not attached to Dartmouth, requiring a ferry boat taxi service (discounted for us regattans). By heeling over so much during the race our sieve had leaked under pressure of so much water and in particular my narrow bunk bore the brunt of the sea. Since it was suggested that I might have to bunk in with the girls they, with indecent haste I have to reflect, immediately set about drying my bunk and racing off to the launderette to tumble dry it. They had also by now invested in ear plugs.

Charles and I abandoned the girls to kindly swab the decks and disinfect the boat down and leaving ‘Lucky Gill’ to make the heads more pleasant, as we headed to the yacht club for a snifter and to meet some of his relatives, who had sailed into Paimpol 55 years ago and more impressively were off skiing at the grand old age of 88. We also found out that we had somehow sneaked into fifth place, thanks to various competitors rudder breakages and people simply not turning up – perhaps they couldn’t find Start Bay. The Regatta party was in Dartmouth so in absence of any mobile comms with the girls we sent a river taxi to pick them up and to rendezvous with us – that was where it all went wrong – the river taxi said the boat was all locked up and no girlies to be found – we had the tickets although had no idea where the place was. Eventually they called, unsurprisingly for Aberdeenshire gals, they had found a bar and we met them there for Pimms and then into the meaty BBQ with lots of music, chatting to other sailors and standing in the toilet queue chatting to other sailors.

Being slightly tiddly it is amazing when your powers of rational thought just disappear. We got back to the pontoon but with no idea of how we were going to bridge the several metre gap between us and the pontoon with our boat and bunks. ‘Steal a tender’ was the obvious irrational solution and as we were untying one conveniently located nearby, Alison said ‘wait, someone is coming’. Gill was a bit more informative – ’shite, it is the owner of this tender we are untying’ so a quick undo on the untying and we were standed around whistling as the gentlemen arrived and kindly offered us a lift (thankfully their tender hadn’t been nicked). We accepted and grabbed a bottle of malt to share from our now tidy boat and boarded their motor launch for a tour.

The next days race was a rerun of the first – we even had breakfast in the Royal Dart again, although this time we had snaffled third place winning a tin mug with some Possers rum to fill it. The BBQ at night was a Spanish theme which meant eating late so we Scots got first in the queue followed quickly by the lads from the boat Windstream who shared a similar appetite to us. We must have been more tired and emotional as we ended up dancing an ill configured, and ill advised, eightsome reel to the Breton pipes. That was when Charles remembered that we had left our lifejackets in the bar at the yacht club – I volunteered recovering them and headed through streets full of saucy schoolgirls (there was a saucy school girl party on in Dartmouth which was somewhat distracting) so ended up on the last ferry over to the Yacht Club and told I had 30 seconds before it departed for the last time back that night – doing my 6 million dollar man impersonation I dashed over to the Yacht Club, grabbed the life jackets with a flourish, and was gone leaping over the gap onto the departed boat and over its safety rail in a trice. With a similar look to the bus driver whose bus I had leaped on as it pulled out, the ferry guy shook his head in general disbelief and charged me the fare. My protest that you shouldn’t pay the ferryman till he gets you to the other side fell on deaf ears.

Alison had previously washed our clothes in the marina launderette and my heavier shirts were hanging out – that would explain why at 4am there was a massive thunderstorm and a huge deluge and my shirts were now wetter than before. I know the storm was bad as I was urinating off the back of the boat into the River Dart, remembering fondly the Royal Castle Hotel with its ensuite bathroom, and couldn’t work out my pee-stream from the rain fall. The channel crossing that day was looking wet and horrid but that is another <a href=”http://www.mikeforsyth.com/index.php/2009/07/lost-in-france/”>story</a>.

<a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeforsyth/collections/72157621370501283/”>Photos of trip</a>

Craggy Upland

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I had to recover my GPS and camera from number one son who was away for a month geological mapping in the Lake District. Kim being a great fan of the Lake District hills suggested we do Haystacks and meet Stuart, but I wanted to go wild swimming at Black Moss Pot so looked at hills around there – Eagle Crag stood out. Eagle Crag is a hill that is often admired but seldom climbed according to Wainwright, from the river it was easy to see why – it looked one large set of interconnected cliffs.

Fortunately there is a way up, although we had a wrong path sort of start we eventually followed the dry stane dyke and headed up a steep incline. I immediately did two things – one was to get cramp in my leg as I crossed over a tree branch that was blocking the way and secondly stepped on a black rock which turned out to be a hole and almost fell down the incline. It was very hot and there was no breeze so water consumption was high (as well as hula hoops for the salt to stop a cramp recurrence)

It still didn’t look as if this hill was climbable once we reached the crags but the wainwright drawing showed that you clamber over the fence and follow the path to the gully then up the terraces and sure enough we made it to the cairn at the top with the sheeps skull on it. From there a cracking view meets you on all sides as well as down in the valley.

We called Stuart who was up working on High Stile and sure enough he answered and we waved although we were all too far to see anything. A paraglider was thermalling above the mountains across the valley from us.

Emptied my water, munched an apple and attempted to eat the melting fruit and nut chocolate without it getting everywhere. it was a hot hot day.

A ridge walk took us to Sergeant Crag, passing a rotten and very smell dead sheep. From there it was all downhill, and at speed. The descent to the Black Moss Pot swimming pond was in between two crags which saved a one mile detour down a more forgiving slope.

Kim led the way as I spent a lot of time on my arse careering down until bracken tied me up entirely with a bracken nappy and a stone managed to rip my shorts (not noticed until later when I was standing at the bar).

During one of these slides I managed to stand on a stone which hurtled downhill and gathering no moss was now gathering momentum and was heading towards Kim. I shouted and she turned thinking I was moaning again after falling when she suddenly spotted this ripple through the bracken like a raptor. She stepped to one side and it followed her she stepped back and again it was following with a final move it brushed past her leg by millimetres and crashed further down in the valley. I got a Paddington hard stare. She said later that what went through her mind was a radio programme about women being stoned in Iran, where the government approve stones in a Goldilocks size – not too small which would not be painful enough, nor too large which would kill the women too quickly,  but just right – maximum pain for longer time. She was wondering if this was a Government approved stone careering down the hill at speed towards her.

We took it easier after that as all the rocks were movable and the bracken was thicker grabbing our legs and trying to trip us up. Reaching the bottom with a tired sigh we headed down to the Black Moss Pot pool with some voice next to me mumbling ‘Why do men always take the direct route down a bloody mountain’

There was only one other person there – some naked hill walker setting a precedent so I stripped off and lowered myself naked into the water – which was much warmer than I had expected it to be (not as chilling as the Fairy Pools of Skye). I swam up to the waterfall which forms a jacuzzi with a rock lip and water pouring over the side  - it was tricky getting in there as it was a strong current from the waterfall pushing me away – you need to grab onto the rocks and pull yourself over the lip of the jacuzzi. A great place for a dip after a hill walk though.

We wandered painfully dehydrated back to the car with Kim telling Twilight Zone stories to reach the car and its water supplies. I swallowed the first gulp of the Cool Mountain Stream water and couldn’t believe it – it was like a cup of tea without the tea – the bottle had been heating in the sun all day.

Away Day Tae Colonsay

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The plans were set when the weather was stunningly marvellous and the forecast was brilliant, fly to Colonsay and have a BBQ on the beach and fly back. Waking in the morning a cursory glance at the met forecast told a very different story – gusting 30 knots forecast for Islay (near Colonsay) and even the shipping forecast was for force 5 or 6 (in case we missed the island). We arrived at the airfield in glorious sunshine and our major worry was taking off with NO wind and a humid warm temperature (the gusting 30 knots seemed like a fairytale as we basked in the sun). We packed up snorkels, masks, fins, BBQ equipment and orange juice, programmed the GPS and all three planes backtracked 11 and took off once or twice on the grass and low over the concrete before clambering into the sky laden with Mike, Kim and BBQ equipment.

The flight over was uneventful skirting the south of the Edinburgh zone, over West Linton seeing a white plane below us and the shadow on the ground of a larger plane above us, crossed by the nuclear power station over to Bute then up and over to Jura to where I had swam a year ago. Down to Islay and crossing the sea to the island of Colonsay passing first over Oronsay the tidal island linked at low tide with Colonsay with a Priory and a now abandoned airfield. From there it was obvious that the Colonsay runway had been redone – a large welcoming tarmac runway was visible. Graeme landed first and on radio warned of bad turbulence on landing, followed by Richard who gave a ‘Wooooo ooooooo aaaarghhh’ on landing which wasn’t encouraging.

I was next – but had a problem actually getting the plane to drop – eventually after a few spirals over Oransay I joined crosswind, downwind then out to sea over the water crashing onto the reefs and turned for finals – as soon as I dropped below the hills the roughness started in the 30 knot gusting wind over the 300 foot hills surrounding the airfield and it was very difficult keeping the plane in any sense on track. The windsock was vertical across the runway so I was trying a diagonal approach and was over the runway too high and going sideways down it – looking like hitting the fence it was a goaround and climbing out way beyond the hills surrounding the airfield and made another approach with sweat running down my forehead.

This time it was as bad but felt more lined up, but wasn’t, lower this time though and went for it and helicopter landed and bounced onto the runway and ran along the runway. Taxied back in to be met by the others who definitely didn’t like the gusting wind landings (one guy was heading off to Coll and decided not to after the landing at Colonsay).

We tied the planes down and walked across the runway (no-one else was goingto be mad enough to land today) and over a rabbit hole covered dunescape to a deserted beach. The tide was going out and the beach was becoming more and more visible and as the others constructed the barbecue and food I donned my mask and snorkel and submerged myself on a sadly fruitless hunt for scallops. The water was surreal filled with parts of seaweed and it was difficult to tell the difference between the sand and the seaweed debris filled water. As I emerged from the deep with mask and snorkel it was heard that this was my ‘Daniel Craig moment’ – although the Wayne’s World NOT! seemed to be appended so I guess they just confused their movies. Besides although Mr Craig posseses and displays a 6 pack I am the proud owner of a firkin.

Sausages and chicken kebabs instead of scallops were a good compromise and cheesecake meant we were flying with most of the weight inside us now instead of in the hold.

Since there wasn’t any fuel on Colonsay so we had each brought a jerry can with 10 Litres of unleaded for each of us as an emergency ration. The plan was that when we reached Strathven, if we were heading south, or Glenrothes, if we were heading north, we coudl re-evaluate our fuel requirements and land and refuel at either airfield.

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