Windy Weekend

July 26, 2010

Having survived another archery evening, where I assembled the bow and added a sight which gave me such improved accuracy I managed to hit the wrong target with one shot – the danger however was far more in my driving where on an unfamiliar road I went steaming across a crossroad without realising it was there missing another vehicle with seconds to spare. Accidents are always caused by people not driving fast enough – if they were driving faster then they would not be in the position where the accident happened, and fortunately on this occasion they were driving a few seconds faster thus missing a possible accident. Spent the Friday evening unti dark watching through my telescope an abseiling forestry worker trim an osprey’s nest and ring the chicks who would be leaving soon on their long journeys of learning how to catch salmon and the mother vertically landing onto the trimmed nest – amazing. Much easier using a telescope for terrestrial viewing – at least trees do not move rapidly due to the earth’s rotation – stars and planets whirling in an endless dance around the skies and out of the telescope’s gaze.

Early morning gutbusting on Saturday morn, to ease tired limbs from archery and kayaking, led us slumped drinking coffee, to find out that one of us busters of guts had gone on a white water rafting adventure for her 50th birthday and ended up with a broken cheekbone and lost a tooth – Nae Limits indeed – we were wondering what the weekend would bring us. It started with being given our certificate and badges for walking the St Cuthberts Way, followed by trailing around Lidl for breakfast delights to go with our tiny eggs (first eggs laid by new chickens) and wondering who had flattened the plastic road sign when we remembered it was obviously the Common Riding day in Kelso and the ride to Yetholm which we could get stuck behind on the way home. We romped back home to see the riders in a traffic jam of their own making caused by slow horses in the lead and a coloured gal looking fed up on a white charger plodding up the Lempitlaw hill (she turned out to be appropriately a Colour Busser).

Kim had decided to go wandering up Windy Gyle so I joined her armed with my iphone, a pair of headphones and ‘To Your Scattered Bodies Go’ the first of the Riverworld series of books by Philip Jose Farmer – so tromped up from Cocklawfoot listening to Sir Richard Burton having sexual congress with Alice in Wonderland to reach the summit of a well named Windy Gyle dressed in my ‘I am not a Werewolf’ Tshirt and shorts and feeling the wind. The summit was mobbed with Newcastle walkers all on their mobiles telling their absent families about their achievements and talking loudly about geocaching as we sat sheltering from the wind and munching our brie sarnies.

With the descent we left the wind and met clouds of insects sheltering from the breezes and descended passing a forest which had been entirely cut down apart from the odd straggling tree which confused Kim’s navigation for a short time.

As a reward it was to the Border Hotel at Kirk Yetholm and a refreshing pint of the bizarrely named ‘Zig Zag to the Onion Bag’ as Kim explored the children’s Wendy house and took the fountain to bits working out how it operated…

We chose to miss the East Fortune airshow due to its cost and lack of Red Arrows and headed southward with Stephanies’ parents to the free Sunderland airshow joining a long traffic queue on the outskirts of Sunderland, which with a combination of iphone and google maps rerouted us around side roads to reach the free parking at the Metro near the Stadium of Light. This was followed by a brisk walk through council estates and rather nice terraced houses and a pet groomer called Millionhairs, to see an enormous woman directing traffic outside a shop called ‘Chubbies’

The vista of the sea front is an amazing place for an airshow, with a royal navy vessel anchored out and passing yachts, RIBs, cargo ships and a passenger ferry all giving something to watch inbetween the aircraft displays – not counting the Sunderland populace with a ‘Fat or Pregnant’ quiz and remarkable hairstyles. We munched our way through a Hog Roast roll and a Mr Whippy icecream, watched youngsters assembling and pointing rifles as a huge recruitment campaign was taking place, read the Northumberland Cross inscription from the Venerable Bede’s Ecclesiastical History of the English Race, and suffered screeching Makems in makeup at the next drinks table before the Red Arrows dazzled the huge crowd and it was time for a march back to try to escape the exodus of Park and Rides.

Categories: Travels.

Island On An Edge – St Kilda

July 19, 2010

With a gunman running amok in North Northumberland, together with the police not too sure where he was and with me living not too far from the Border I decided to tell Kim to lock the doors and I headed to the Outer Hebrides with a kayak on the roof, making sure not to pick up any hitchhikers on the way. In the standby queue at Ullapool for the Stornoway ferry, filled with haddock from the Pub on the Pier, and waiting with trepidation as the large lorries filled the ferry but thankfully I was finally waved on – saving a 6 hour wait for the next ferry as I had already exhausted the fantastic bookshop and museum and fuel was too expensive to go cruising around. The ferries were busy as they had been cancelled a few days before due to appalling weather and there was of course the Stornoway music festival on.

This allowed me a Johnson and Boswell Tour of the Hebrides, albeit at a much faster rate – tearing up to the Phallus at the Butt of Lewis (the magnificent lighthouse) and eyeing with concern the stormy sea I would be paddling in the next day. The Butt is also a differential GPS station which didn’t quite explain why my satnav was reporting 385 miles to the Callanish stones which were under 40 miles away. Passing large concrete bunkers littering the road it turned out they were bus shelters the previous ones not made of reinforced concrete being scattered to the winds like breadcrumbs.

Reached Callanish at sunset to find more photographers than stones but a few scrum tactics had me in the centre of the circle as the stones were painted in the sunset. They are trying to rename them Calanais even though the stones predate the Gaelic language by thousands of years. Smaller than I expected but delightful all the same and sunset is definitely the time to see them.

I filled with with petrol at 131p per litre in Stornoway to find air guns standing proud behind the counter and found no room at any inns other than a hotel whose empty interior was far too much like the Shining to encourage wandering around corridors. Early walk around Stornoway then it was over to Uig in Lewis to meet the MV Cuma and the rest of the team for our circumnavigation of St Kilda. Provisioning for wine and goodies took us to the community shop where we found out that the 131p diesel was a bargain compared to the 160p here in Uig.

We assembled over a cup of tea – Murty Campbell is the coxswain for the Stornoway lifeboat (which did cause a moment of pause wondering who was going to rescue us if he was on the same boat), Linda had attempted to cycle the world with her husband who sadly died after 10 days crossing the US, Andrea is an american folk singer and geography lecturer with a specialisation in Nepal and fruit teas, Nick a brummy builder, tree planter and kayak coach from Anglesey, with Tom a mechanic with a hatred of contemporary art involving unmade beds and a confession that he couldn’t swim well a good incentive to keep in his kayak and Rosie from the Wirral whose smiles would light darkened caves. This was the paddling team and we were joined by Jim, the headmaster from Bettyhill at the top of Scotland, whose personality filled the rest of the places. The Skipper and chef was Murdani Macdonald (yes this is a boat with a Campbell and a Macdonald on it) and the deck hand and waiter with ulcer problems was Garry – they had been lobster fisherman out at St Kilda for years and their love of the islands and rough seas came over well. The boat itself had a tumble drier and 24v sockets for recharging which was amazingly useful over the week.

The weather was not going to be good for a trip to St Kilda for at least 2 days – so we were dropped off on the west coast of Lewis at 3pm as the boat steamed off with our dinner to some far off sea loch to encourage us to get there. Paddling didn’t feel right in my boat but we made it to an island and beached – I was pulled up to what I thought was the beach and stepped out to find myself upside down in the water – the front of the kayak was on some sand the rest was in deep water! Andrea shouted ‘Mike is talking to the fishies’ and produced a huge bag of Green and Black chocolates and some marvellous White chocolate covered blackberries which Mike devoured on medical grounds.

Categories: Kayaking, Travels, Walking.