Not wet enough this summer? Then go for a spin in the whirlpools of the Gulf of Corryvreckan, to the north of Jura.
To prepare us for the long journey we lunched at the ancient Unicorn Inn in the surprisingly charming fishing village of Kincardine, turn left after the bridge and prepare to be surprised with a Fife fishing village like architecture and the circa 1639 Unicorn Inn with its splendid fare. We were also suprised to find our microlight colleague DSI Badger there, fresh from working at the nearby Tullieallan police college (Rebus’s alma mater). Fuelled for a romp around Alloa Tower, in the shadow of the enormous Tesco Extra in Alloa. The enthusiastic National Trust staff were fiercely proud of the Tower which is a surprising jewel, with an Italian dome inside it and a rooftop walkway revealing a glassworks, power station and pylons, Grangemouth oil refinery and the Tesco car park.
An espresso stop at the real food cafe at Tyndrum, across the Bridge over the Atlantic, booking into our B&B at Easdale, ordering dinner at the Oyster Bar and stepping into waterproofs and life jackets and we were then jetting across the sea riding on saddles and bouncing around at high speed towards the Grey Corries whirlpool and then onto the Gulf itself. The Gulf of Corryvreckan was said to be unnavigable by the Royal Navy, is the most challenging dive site in the UK, and is feared amongst yachtsmen and kayakers.
There are several whirlpools and it is a combination of tidal force, wind and bad luck to see standing waves, whirlpool walls and lots of whirling water as the high powered motor boat spins around and supplies gallons of salt water across the bows and straight into my face. I was underwater powered – watch, camera and new deck shoes and wrapped in Sea.Fari waterproofs – it was just the rest of me that got soaked. The camera almost went overboard as the neck strap broke – but my Day Skipper knot practice saved the day as my Bowline, idly tied for practice, kept camera attached to the sodden owner.
As if we weren’t soaked enough we retired to the Oyster Bar for pints of Grey Dogs with the brewer at the bar and some very welcome food. Retired to our B&B and its Sky telly entertainment where attractive women encourage roulette playing, Urdu channels compete with God, Pop and Shopping channels and all resulted in a deep sleep. The room was for the Long, the Short and The Tall – just not all at the same time. The bed was long and particularly high – as I found out getting up in the morning – I reverted to parachute training and kept knees together and rolled on impact; the short was for the bath filled with Boots bath caviar and the tall was for the bathroom mirror perched high above us.
After a delicious breakfast we headed home, Kim following slow traffic meandering down the Highland roads in wonderful Highland scenery in surprising sunshine, as I read my Day Skipper text and tied more knots whilst munching ginger bears to ward off travel sickness. We stopped at the Falls of Lora under the Connel Bridge and watched ducks floating backwards down the tidal anomoly. We returned to find our estranged son had crashed his monkey bike, as predicted by everyone but him, and had cracked ribs. It’s now a race between his bike and his girlfriend screwing up his repeat 5th year.