Microlight repaired and waiting for collection in Rochdale – so we took the chance to visit the North East coast where everything seems to be brought to you by the letter S – we went down via South Shields, Sunderland, Saltburn-by-the-Sea, Staithes and Scarborough – saw the sands, salty sea and scaled steep steps.
Starting with the Baltic Gallery with flat screens in the stairwell eerily echoing faces singing John Lennon songs. South shields harbour gave us a walk along the sea wall, we saw the Marsden coast, Sunderland sea front and went hunting for the Apollo Pavilion in Peterlee (named after the miner Peter Lee) – but the unpopular piece of architecture denied listed building status and any form of sign telling you where it is (the information signs lead to a multi story car park) so we gave up on this quest and headed for lunch in the Castle Eden Inn in Castle Eden which did not sell any Castle Eden Ale (or any real ale at all).
Through the Blade Runner landscape of Middlesborough we reached Saltburn-by-the-sea and its delightful pier. Its elevator was out of season so we marched up the 200 steps from the beach for a great view over the pier and sea front and cliffs. Staithes was next on the tour and is a picturesque fishing village down a steep road, where locals used to urinate on alum to make a dye. Racing the sun we reached Whitby and raced up the 199 steps to St Marys Church and Whitby Abbey where we clambered over the back wall to watch the sunset over Dracula’s castle (Bram Stoker never visited Transylvania and set Dracula in Whitby – the Count was an illegal immigrant and the novel is one of the Invasion Novels). I should have brought my wicker coffin. We managed to get a room with balcony overlooking a courtyard and with a four poster bed in the Shepherd’s Purse and headed to the Magpie Cafe for their famous fish and chips, via some pubs selling Black Sheep ale. The Magpie is only closed one evening a year and this was that evening, so after finding all the other fish and chip shops closed we headed for Greens which is a marvellous restaurant (where the owner weaves large willow unicorns with the help of the waitresses). Kim retired for the evening unable to buy any Whitby Jet as the shops were all safely shut, leaving me in the pub next door with a retired chemist who had a friend that had died of anthrax poisoning abroad, a barman who had a geography degree and a group of nurses out on the piss. Breakfast the next day was delicious in the restaurant next to the pub and my wild mushroom omlette set me up for the romp around Robin Hood’s Bay.
There is a plaque celebrating the time when a ship floundered in the bay and the whitby lifeboat had to be carried overland 6 miles in deep snow by 18 horses and 200 men in 2 hours to launch and rescue everyone. Scarborough is down the coast with a wonderful beach and victorian splendour with a spa and the surreal sight of people dancing a slowed down version of the Gay Gordons to an eerie tune in a huge but empty ballroom that reminded me of The Shining. Scarborough beach was very chilly, it was November after all, with people minesweeping on the beach.
Flamborough Head was the furthest south down the coast we were going – it is a set of chalk cliffs and the oldest lighthouse in the country – they used to set fires on top of it. It was windy and cold too so we headed for lunch which meant fish and chips at Bridlington and the Pride of Bridlington (seafish 2006 best north east restaurant). We found it using a combination of google maps, google which told us there were lots of estate agents in that road and driving around until we saw lots of estate agents and then the blue frontage of the best fish and chips. A lovely blonde girl delivered delicious fish and chips and a ‘bag of bits’ which we munched happily on the Bridlington sea front with its surreal art work and ‘as far as the eye can see’ beach.
We were racing against time now as Mainair shut at 4 – but the M62 delivered us in plenty of time to pick up the plane, meet folk from Perth airfield over coffee and drive back in pouring rain. We assembled the plane the next day in high wind in a hanger. Gordon strolled into the hanger asking if we wanted a hand, we said ‘thanks but we had instructions and thought we could manage’ – he pointed out that the wing was upside down….
