It started off as an idea to cycle from Newcastle central station to Berwick-upon Tweed railway station up the coast, and it turned out there was a coast and castle cycle route already so I bought the guidebook, which I then lost somewhere in my library, and 2 maps both of which had slightly different accounts of the route.
Ali dropped me off outside a catholic church in central Newcastle and I assembled my bits attempting to fit them all into a day sack which was now about as heavy as I was so I was now balanced top heavy with a full bladder on top of a lightweight titanium bike (mudguards removed to save weight seemed a drop in the ocean now). The forecast was showers with thunderstorms and heavy rain on the Sunday, so I had a light t-shirt and cargo shorts on.
The Coast and Castles route starts at the monolithic central station in busy Newcastle and drops down a steep hill to the Quayside, scene of my nude stance on the Millennium Bridge several years ago. I was powered on fruity porridge and set off. The Quayside was filled with strollers, cyclists and joggers which made for a good experience of avoiding people as I swept past carried with momentum and a slight gradient in the nice direction. The Google Map route goes across the water – not being Evil Knievel nor Jesus I diverted around crossing a bridge to emerge into a deserted area looking for somewhere to pee. Deserted apart from police, joggers and cyclists finishing their coastal route and looking totally knackered and as jovial as a jogger.
The first confusion with the Sustrans route is that it starts off as route 72 then changes to merge with the unnumbered Hadrian’s Wall route and at Tynemouth it becomes the start of the Coastal and Castle route 1 – I think they are making it up as they go along. The Hadrian’s Wall way is well signposted and is on a cycle path which changes randomly from being pedestrian on the left and cycling on the right to the other way round. The pedestrians consisted mainly of morose dog walkers and pushchair pushing women, the cyclists were dressed in bright racing gear along with cheerful smiles. One pit bull decided I was fair game as I put on a spurt to stop being eaten as its waddling owner (dogs and their owners?) shouted encouraging grunts to it.
The route follows the Tyne as shipbuilding in progress and large cranes impress an industrial historical feel. Views of the fast flowing Tyne open up at Wallsend with a tower for Port traffic control and roman ruins sharing space behind fences. The route was nicely up and down although the fast down routes also came with bollards and hairpin corners to keep your speed under control, or in my case bounced off them.
I got lost near the Tyne tunnel, fortunately you don’t go through it, but managed to find a bush to have a pee finally appropriately near the Wet’n'Wild building which the route website says Pass it on the left – which would entail crossing a railway line. Got back on track and reached the marina and North Sea Ferry area with a marina and a ped/cycle route with the pedestrian side sensibly cobbled to discourage the cyclists and sufficient signage to keep you on track.
Entered Tynemouth to see two drunks shouting and throwing beer cans at each other in front of me – more fast cycling past them and down to the promenade. One sign read ‘Black Pudding, no fat bits, like the wife’ and a pub sign had the actual structure it was named after. The promenade was filled with people to avoid and large ships were powering up the Tyne. The priory looked impressive but is an English Heritage attraction meaning expensive entry fees and constant temptations to join them. I walked my bike around its perimeter, filled with chip munching people then headed northward towards Berwick.
Tynemouth to Whitley Bay is one long conurbation with lovely beaches. Cullercoats is barely mentioned on the map and yet is a complete sea area in the met office forecast, has a NAVTEX tower and a historic RNLI building and fisherman lookout. Whitley Bay arrives very quickly with a restoring Spanish City building (as mentioned in local boys Dire Straits Tunnel of Love song) and a promenade filled with people to avoid, all seemingly munching ice cream on an overcast day. Seaton Sluice arrived unexpectedly and was more delightful than the name suggests, although it had a dried out harbour seen from a metal bridge.
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